Today I am bring home my tutorial, for you, on how to line the fabulous Novelista, in fleece. I have to say this is one of my most worn shirts. It is super cozy warm and I never want to take it off. If you choose to make one, you now have fair warning!
First, grab a copy of the Novelista. Go ahead, *whistles* I’ll wait.
Since I have lined the entire shirt, including sleeves, you need the same amount of fabric for the lining as the outer fabric. I used flannel for the outside, and fleece for the liner. It makes for one cozy shirt, let me tell you.
BTW: my youngest took these photos, and the majority of them came out like this one above. It looks like I may fall of the earth at any moment.
OK. Now to adjust the cut list.
The pieces that were affected were these:
yoke: 1 outer, 1 fleece
collar band: 1 outer, 1 fleece
front: 2 outer, 2 fleece
sleeves: 2 outer, 2 fleece (I waited to cut the outer and lining placket line together- see below)
side front: 2 outer, 2 fleece
side back: 2 outer, 2 fleece
back: 1 outer, 1 fleece
cut out all other pattern pieces as directed.
Just a little heads up- I will refer, in my instructions, to WS (wrong sides) and RS (right sides), often. A lot of this shirt is sewn with the outer and lining WS together, as if they were one piece of fabric. You’ll catch on.
Now I am going to take you through my changes, step by step.
Follow step 1 as written. When you get to Step 2, make sure you place the liner on the outer WS together.
This is what step 2 should look like. Do Step 3.
In Step 4, I also chose to add a little strip of bias tape to the front placket, to break up that plaid. Totally optional.
In Step 5, I sewed the outer front and outer side front together. Make sure the lining piece is out of the way.
Then did the same for the lining front and lining side front. Repeat for the other side of the shirt. When you are done, it will look like this.
Take a moment to admire your expert pattern matching.
I chose not to sewn on a pocket. If you do, just follow the directions as written.
Next up is the Shirttail Back.
Step 1, I made sure to only make the pleat on the outer fabric. The lining is already bulky enough, so I trimmed it to be the same size as the newly pleated back piece. Make sure you have WS together when you do this.
Step 2: I did not photograph any of this, but repeat how you did the front pieces, only this time with the back. Sew outer back to outer side backs, and lining back to lining side backs.
Treat your back pieces as one (lay lining on outer WS together) and follow steps 1 through 4 as written.
Step 1: Lay both lining and outer sleeves WS together, and cut along the placket line.
I chose to use bias tape for my sleeve placket, but if you are making yours, follow step 2 as written.
After Steps 3, 4 and 5, you should have this.
I also chose to skip steps 6-10, because my sleeves are a little too bulky to roll up. If you choose to, follow as written. Do not move on to Step 11!
I had to put mine together a little differently at this point. You are going to be sewing your sleeves up before inserting into the shirt. So take the outer and fold RS together, and fold the lining RS together and pin in place. Sew each side.
Now comes the fun part. Turn the lining right side out, and pull the outer sleeve through it. Then turn the whole thing right side out.
You should have something that resembles a very neatly lined sleeve! Repeat for other sleeve. Then put them aside.
Pick up your shirt body. We need to sew up those sides.
Turn your shirt with the lining facing out.
Fold back the lining sides, and grab the outer fabric sides (should be RS together).
I like to pin (or clip) together. Then sew. Repeat for other side.
To sew the lining sides together, you will have to do some fabric gymnastics like you did in the yokes steps (see yoke section in pattern). Make sure the lining sides are RS together and pin, then sew (be sure that the outer shirt is out of the way when sewing).
Now it is time to insert the sleeves into the shirt.
I basted the sleeve holes as well as basted the armholes on the shirt, just to keep everything in place.
Insert the sleeves into the shirt RS together. Be sure to line up the side seam lines. Sew around the perimeter. I used my pinking shears to finish the seam. Use whatever method works for you. These are the only exposed or raw seams in the whole shirt! Repeat for other sleeve.
Follow the directions for sewing on the collar and the cuffs, as written.
To hem the bottom, I had to get creative, so it wouldn’t be too bulky.
Fold the outer fabric in and the lining fabric in. Take it slow and do a little at a time. I clipped in place.
Top stitch (sew on all those buttons and buttonholes) and you are done!
Just a little note: I reduced my seam allowances (SA) by half so I would have a little more wiggle room, and to allow for the bulk, but this was totally unnecessary! When I make my next one, I will just follow the regular SA for a more fitted shirt.
As with all of Blank Slate Patterns, this one helps you produce such a high quality product.
I cannot wait to make more!